Saturday, June 20, 2009

Sit, eat, and keep eating.


Today after school I rode the bus into Ialovin, a small town about 15 minutes away, to meet some other volunteers for a beer. I called Anna, my host sister (which seems like a real sister already), to tell her I would be late for dinner. Nui nici o problema - no problem. In Moldova, I've learned, for every hour you're late for dinner there is an extra plate of food you're expected to eat when you return home. I am one of the lucky volunteer trainees to have another volunteer as a neighbor. This will only last for the two months we train and then I will most likely be in a village of my own when I get to my permanent site for the two years of service. When Neal and I returned home to our families, you would have thought we had barely survived starvation if you could have seen the food they prepared. Trust me, you have no choice but to eat. They are all about sitting around a table and laughing over food. It doesn't matter if you have already eaten three or four meals with your family, if a guest comes over, it starts all over....infinite amounts of food, sweets, fruit picked from the backyard, homemade wine, and cognac. There are grapes growing everywhere around me, so each family is very proud of their homemade wine. I've only been with my family for several days, but i'm starting to understand a good bit of what they are saying in romanian.

I'm amazed at the perserverance of the Moldovan people. For the past few decades, Moldova has been on a political fault line. Between the Russian empire, Ottoman empire, and the infamous Soviet regime, Moldova has been stuck directly in the middle (geographically and politically) of the "East" and the "West". Political fights have damaged the country, and it can be seen by walking the roads of the villages. I can't imagine being here years back and seeing Soviet troops march though my village of Milestii Mici. However, when you step inside the home of a Moldovan, everything you think you may know about Moldova from a textbook will change instantly. Before you can take your shoes off (leave your shoes at the door to show respect for the mother's work), the family will already be in the kitchen throwing food on the table. They are all very open, affectionate, happy, and engaging people. For anyone searching out the simple things in life, come stay with a Moldovan family. Somehow, they can magically block out all of the complications and struggles surrounding their country by keeping your belly full.

Big thanks to everyone reading my blog and making comments. I will contact you personally eventually, but my free time is limited during training. Once I learn the language and get settled in, I'll have more time. If there is anything you're curious about, just let me know and I'll write about it. I love you all.

p.s. I saw a toilet for the first time yesterday during my trip to town :)

We have had many "welcome" parties from Moldova. Most every party has traditonal songs and dances like the one below (it's a video). The circular dance is the "hora", which is the national dance. The dance always starts with the folk groups, but by the end of the party everyone joins in.



Traditonal Roma dancer (known in the states as Gypsies, but that term is deragatory)My walk to school takes about 25 minutes. This is a typical sight along the way.My romanian teachers, Lucille and Stela. They are amazing in all respects.From left to right: My neighbor Anna, my sister Anna, and Moldovan Vince.This is what almost every backyard looks like. Every family is nearly self sufficient with their fruit and veggies.Walking home from school.Don't be mistaken, I eat a lot.

3 comments:

  1. Thanks for call. Pics and info on blog great and you look wonderful. Love pics Everyone here fine. Care package in mail Monday. Later,

    Love,
    Moma

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  2. Vince, this is great. Moldovan Vince looks full and happy so it nice to see that the people around you are taking such good care of you. You said they are self sufficient house holds, so does this mean that they slaughter their own animals for meat? You said with a full belly the problems around you kind of seem to fade. I think this is so true. I guess it is the simple nature of eating, drinking, laughing and sharing that takes precident over all else, at least for a short while. This 'hora' dance looks like a good time. I will start the task of instating it as the new five points dance soon. I went to Ravens Cliff Falls for a hike yesterday, which is close to Jones Gap. It was amazing, refreshing. Anyway i will give more details and pictures in a letter. Mama Dukes is right, you look wonderful. Miss you, love you.
    -Hannah

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  3. my favorite picture is the goat on the wall :) we'll practice the hora tonight, and hopefully have it perfected for the party on santee this weekend. i wish you were here, or rather, we were there. love you.

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